...if not a White Christmas then certainly a wintry one. It's just not the same in the middle of summer. However I suppose it'll be something to look forward to in years to come...
Mustn't complain of course as the weather is glorious and we are making full use of our pool. Also, Loving Grandmother has arrived from the UK bearing plenty of gifts and making two little people very happy, with cuddles, stories and of course her two iPhones, thoughtfully pre-loaded with children's applications and games thus of great interest to the girls.
Presents have been wrapped, cards despatched, carrots for the reindeer and a glass of Sauvignon Blanc with a few almonds left out for poor old Father Christmas (he's going to need them by the time he gets here after servicing the rest of the world) so I think it's time to sign off.
May your days be merry and bright
And may all your Christmases be... wintry.
Sunday, 25 December 2011
Wednesday, 21 December 2011
Deck the halls with boughs of...
...asparagus? Strawberry plants? Sunflowers? Certainly no real holly to be found here in an increasingly blazing summer in Chile, although oddly enough many of the northern hemisphere's Christmas traditions persist despite their apparent incongruity with the meteorological season. Thus we find model snowmen adorning people's gardens, depictions of reindeer pulling sleighs and plenty of Father Christmases dressed up in shopping malls or climbing up buildings. Last Saturday in Jumbo, our local supermarket, many of the staff were dressed as Father Christmas or his elves as "White Christmas" crooned out overhead to get us in the mood, the air-conditioning turned up full blast while outside the temperatures approached 32°C.
In a way it doesn't seem quite so strange this year as we've been through it before; indeed we are managing to recreate a festive atmosphere reasonably successfully this time. Perhaps it helps that we are in our own home with all our own belongings including three boxes of Christmas decorations acquired over the years... As DD1 broke up for an almost three-month-long summer holiday last week, we immediately set to work on our eco-tree and have now an interesting cardboard sculpture on our terrace which has been painted green and decorated with our lighter Christmas ornaments. We have made and illustrated cards, wrapped presents for teachers, made paper snowflakes and of course attacked the Advent calendars with great enthusiasm. One week of the school holidays gone, ten more to go... Meanwhile DD2 has been valiantly soldiering on at her nursery, lured in part by the prospect of a visit from Father Christmas himself, puzzlingly here in Chile referred to as "el viejito pascuero"... However tomorrow is her last day, with Spanish-language carols in the evening an invitation we cannot refuse...
A performance of the Nutcracker last weekend helped to conjure up some Christmas magic with both girls mesmerised by the dancing, the story, the scenery and of course the music. Unfortunately there was no live orchestra but a decent recording which was however inexplicably interrupted every now and then for some very impromptu editing. Another Chilean moment...
In a way it doesn't seem quite so strange this year as we've been through it before; indeed we are managing to recreate a festive atmosphere reasonably successfully this time. Perhaps it helps that we are in our own home with all our own belongings including three boxes of Christmas decorations acquired over the years... As DD1 broke up for an almost three-month-long summer holiday last week, we immediately set to work on our eco-tree and have now an interesting cardboard sculpture on our terrace which has been painted green and decorated with our lighter Christmas ornaments. We have made and illustrated cards, wrapped presents for teachers, made paper snowflakes and of course attacked the Advent calendars with great enthusiasm. One week of the school holidays gone, ten more to go... Meanwhile DD2 has been valiantly soldiering on at her nursery, lured in part by the prospect of a visit from Father Christmas himself, puzzlingly here in Chile referred to as "el viejito pascuero"... However tomorrow is her last day, with Spanish-language carols in the evening an invitation we cannot refuse...
A performance of the Nutcracker last weekend helped to conjure up some Christmas magic with both girls mesmerised by the dancing, the story, the scenery and of course the music. Unfortunately there was no live orchestra but a decent recording which was however inexplicably interrupted every now and then for some very impromptu editing. Another Chilean moment...
Thursday, 15 December 2011
Fly me to the moon
Like other Catholic countries, Chile observes a national holiday for the feast of the Immaculate Conception (8 December) thus we have just had a four-day weekend (always welcome). In fact having noticed this on the school calendar we had planned our last short break of the year accordingly and flew out from Santiago on Thursday morning to Calama, approximately a thousand miles north and gateway to the much-talked-about region of Atacama, home of the driest desert in the world...
Calama itself seemed to comprise the airport, rows of prefabricated houses and little else of any interest. Like the hordes before us we too were bound for the region's cultural capital and were soon bumping along a seemingly interminable but ruggedly awe-inspiring road through barren rocky desert towards San Pedro de Atacama. It was a longer journey than we'd imagined but when at last the bus chugged towards a shimmering green oasis amid the swirling dust clouds, we knew we had arrived at our destination.
San Pedro is even more spectacular than one expects; its position on the edge of the desert and poised between dramatic valleys, lakes, canyons and volcanoes must be one of the most naturally fortunate in the world. The town itself is pretty, faithfully preserved with its original adobe architectural style while also being very well-developed as a tourist and serious traveller destination. Clearly the town's raison d'etre is the sheer panoply of excursions possible and available to be purchased from any one of the numerous tour operators lining its streets (along with the hotels, hostels, cafes, restaurants and shops) although it is also a calmly pleasant environment in which to relax between tours, whether sipping a drink in the shady main square (complete with picturesque church) or ambling around its dusty corners. Judging from the number of northern European travellers, both budget and luxury, one can only conclude that San Pedro de Atacama must have achieved legendary status on the traveller trail as backpackers and young people in general abound, both visitors and local workers, though surprisingly so do senior citizens evidently in search of pastures new as a busload of French pensioners proved...
The first thing we did on arrival was to take time to acclimatise to our new environment, paying particular attention to the adjustment in altitude which was over 2400m. However we were all fine, some dry skin apparent even on the girls' lips by the end of our stay but nothing more serious than that. Sunglasses were essential equipment, even for the children, as were hats and sunblock to resist the glare of a very strong sun. Our hotel was comfortable and clean though we were wary of not wasting tap water while also drinking copious amounts of the bottled variety. Soon we were busy exploring the town centre, weighing up the possibilities, staving off the touts and trying to strike a balance between nature, adventure, activity and relaxation with two -admittedly robust- small children in tow.
Our first excursion bright and early the next morning was to Laguna Cejar in the middle of the salt plain although it soon transformed itself into something of an endurance test, largely due to an incommunicative and incompetent driver. However the lake itself was a wonder to contemplate, not just for its beauty but also for its apparent ability to keep even the heaviest person afloat due to its high salt concentration as DH successfully tested...
The next afternoon came probably the highlight of our stay: a trip to the Valle de la Luna, so-called for its other-worldly landscape, sense of infinite space and of course lack of vegetation. In this case even the bus ride was spectacular but walking along its stony surface surrounded by mineral-rich rocks and jutting cliffs was even more evocative of space exploration. It was a little like being on a vast film set or a photo shoot as the opportunities to remain impressed were endless. The children loved it, DD1 running up and down sand dunes while DD2 scrambled to keep up, collecting as many stones and crystals as she could carry.
It was a tough choice but for the last day we plumped for an afternoon spent at Termas de Puritama, a series of eight natural rock pools with thermal properties and water at a temperature of around 34°C. The pools themselves were dramatically set in a breathtakingly verdant canyon under the watchful gaze of the active volcano Licancabur whose smoke one could see rising... Only snag was that DD2 refused to set foot in any of the pools once she knew there were fish and other creatures swimming in it, not to mention algae and other suspicious-looking "green things"... DD1 on the other hand had to be forcibly removed from the water when it was time to go.
Back in Santiago and it feels as if we were really on another planet for a few exciting and unforgettable days...
It was a tough choice but for the last day we plumped for an afternoon spent at Termas de Puritama, a series of eight natural rock pools with thermal properties and water at a temperature of around 34°C. The pools themselves were dramatically set in a breathtakingly verdant canyon under the watchful gaze of the active volcano Licancabur whose smoke one could see rising... Only snag was that DD2 refused to set foot in any of the pools once she knew there were fish and other creatures swimming in it, not to mention algae and other suspicious-looking "green things"... DD1 on the other hand had to be forcibly removed from the water when it was time to go.
Back in Santiago and it feels as if we were really on another planet for a few exciting and unforgettable days...
Monday, 5 December 2011
Festive season begins
Just like last year the festive season is getting underway in earnest as the sun gets hotter, the days longer and clothing skimpier... Santiago is gloriously full of mauve-flowering trees which from a distance appear to have purple leaves and are very distinctive, colourful and gay. Nature's tinsel perhaps...
Last week we were treated to the end-of-year music recital for which DD1 was the sole recorder-player in a vast group which included boisterous boys strumming guitars and angelic girls singing in the choir. The organisation as usual was less than slick but proud parents clutching cameras didn't seem to mind as the music teacher apologised for the confusion and lack of chairs (which eventually materialised). DD1 seemed very nervous as she took her seat near the teacher, importantly adjusting her music stand to the lowest height and taking it all very seriously... We couldn't help but smile when the music teacher introduced the song "Whatever" as the jingle to a famous soft drink and without mentioning the original authors but certainly enjoyed the rendition, mispronunciations and all... Next week we have the Christmas songs concert to look forward to which includes such spiritual classics as "Santa Claus is coming to town" and "Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer" so not quite the traditional carol service then...
Meanwhile it's been a hugely important week for DD2 too as she celebrated her fourth birthday both at nursery and at home. It was the perfect opportunity for a garden party in December, with outdoor toys, games, races and ice-lollies as well as the usual birthday fodder. Having now had two birthdays in what can only be described as the heat in Chile, DD2 is now under the impression she was born in summer though I keep explaining that this was not in fact the case. Her birthday now over, we tried listening to some carols today but to no avail; they just sound wrong when one is dressed in short sleeves and the sun is shining in full force. Having failed to find a simple Advent calendar with doors leading to exciting images of Christmas paraphernalia, I relented and bought them a chocolate one each, only to have to keep them in the fridge which does rather defeat the purpose. Which brings me on to the next burning issue: what to do for a Christmas tree. Back in days of old we used to insist on real, potted trees which could then be replanted but here it is of course impossible to find a fir tree in summer. Most people and shopping malls opt for the unabashed fake tree but I am managing to resist this quite easily for now, promising the girls that we really can make our own eco-friendly tree ourselves with all the old toilet roll and kitchen roll cylinders we've been dutifully keeping for just such a project...
Last week we were treated to the end-of-year music recital for which DD1 was the sole recorder-player in a vast group which included boisterous boys strumming guitars and angelic girls singing in the choir. The organisation as usual was less than slick but proud parents clutching cameras didn't seem to mind as the music teacher apologised for the confusion and lack of chairs (which eventually materialised). DD1 seemed very nervous as she took her seat near the teacher, importantly adjusting her music stand to the lowest height and taking it all very seriously... We couldn't help but smile when the music teacher introduced the song "Whatever" as the jingle to a famous soft drink and without mentioning the original authors but certainly enjoyed the rendition, mispronunciations and all... Next week we have the Christmas songs concert to look forward to which includes such spiritual classics as "Santa Claus is coming to town" and "Rudolph the red-nosed reindeer" so not quite the traditional carol service then...
Meanwhile it's been a hugely important week for DD2 too as she celebrated her fourth birthday both at nursery and at home. It was the perfect opportunity for a garden party in December, with outdoor toys, games, races and ice-lollies as well as the usual birthday fodder. Having now had two birthdays in what can only be described as the heat in Chile, DD2 is now under the impression she was born in summer though I keep explaining that this was not in fact the case. Her birthday now over, we tried listening to some carols today but to no avail; they just sound wrong when one is dressed in short sleeves and the sun is shining in full force. Having failed to find a simple Advent calendar with doors leading to exciting images of Christmas paraphernalia, I relented and bought them a chocolate one each, only to have to keep them in the fridge which does rather defeat the purpose. Which brings me on to the next burning issue: what to do for a Christmas tree. Back in days of old we used to insist on real, potted trees which could then be replanted but here it is of course impossible to find a fir tree in summer. Most people and shopping malls opt for the unabashed fake tree but I am managing to resist this quite easily for now, promising the girls that we really can make our own eco-friendly tree ourselves with all the old toilet roll and kitchen roll cylinders we've been dutifully keeping for just such a project...
Tuesday, 22 November 2011
Termas de Chillan
Another conference for DH to attend last week so again a perfect opportunity for us to join him and explore another of South America's many wonders... This time the conference location was Concepcion, a university town a few regions south of Santiago and most remembered as the epicentre of 2010's devastating earthquake. However, as Chile is such a thin country, one can easily choose whether to head for the sea or the mountains from just about anywhere. We chose the latter after being wooed by tantalising descriptions of one of Chile's foremost mountain resorts in the form of the thermal baths of Chillan. Despite an eight-hour journey from our home in Santiago to the remote mountain valley, we were not disappointed...
Travelling by train first of all was quite a novelty, especially for the first hour or two. The train was surprisingly spacious and the girls were busy with their activity books and picnic lunch, even staying in their places for a while... Later there was a moment of restlessness but numerous trips to the rubbish bin at the top of the carriage seemed to provide enough amusement to see them through. On arrival at Chillan our transfer to the mountains was a minibus/people carrier which also met with plenty of approval from our intrepid smaller travellers, though the winding roads caused us a few hairy moments. We were relieved to arrive at our destination, swathed in mist and appearing in the semi-darkness more similar to the Scottish Highlands or possibly the Alps than anything else. Luckily our lodging was a cosy mountain refuge complete with huge chimney places, soft comfortable armchairs and open beams...
As the skiing season ended over a month ago now, it was low season and very quiet, therefore for us the best possible time to visit. We were practically the only guests along with what appeared to be a couple on honeymoon (whom we hardly saw, probably their choice) so had the dining room, living room and even outdoor hot thermal baths all to ourselves, much to our pleasure. We wrapped up in warm jackets and scarves for exploratory walks to nearby waterfalls and savage woodlands while admiring snow-covered mountains set against the dramatic backdrop of a volcano. It was incredibly atmospheric and invigorating as well as being relaxing and pampering, although the girls probably tired of the full board before we did... A weekend was just enough to appreciate the wild beauty of our environment whilst also enjoying the distance and remoteness from the hustle and bustle of the big city, though the prospect to returning to heat and sunlight was also appealing as we began the long journey back yesterday afternoon...
Travelling by train first of all was quite a novelty, especially for the first hour or two. The train was surprisingly spacious and the girls were busy with their activity books and picnic lunch, even staying in their places for a while... Later there was a moment of restlessness but numerous trips to the rubbish bin at the top of the carriage seemed to provide enough amusement to see them through. On arrival at Chillan our transfer to the mountains was a minibus/people carrier which also met with plenty of approval from our intrepid smaller travellers, though the winding roads caused us a few hairy moments. We were relieved to arrive at our destination, swathed in mist and appearing in the semi-darkness more similar to the Scottish Highlands or possibly the Alps than anything else. Luckily our lodging was a cosy mountain refuge complete with huge chimney places, soft comfortable armchairs and open beams...
As the skiing season ended over a month ago now, it was low season and very quiet, therefore for us the best possible time to visit. We were practically the only guests along with what appeared to be a couple on honeymoon (whom we hardly saw, probably their choice) so had the dining room, living room and even outdoor hot thermal baths all to ourselves, much to our pleasure. We wrapped up in warm jackets and scarves for exploratory walks to nearby waterfalls and savage woodlands while admiring snow-covered mountains set against the dramatic backdrop of a volcano. It was incredibly atmospheric and invigorating as well as being relaxing and pampering, although the girls probably tired of the full board before we did... A weekend was just enough to appreciate the wild beauty of our environment whilst also enjoying the distance and remoteness from the hustle and bustle of the big city, though the prospect to returning to heat and sunlight was also appealing as we began the long journey back yesterday afternoon...
Tuesday, 15 November 2011
November news
Well it's November so it must be...spring. It doesn't seem quite so strange this year and after having had to endure winter during the traditional summer months I certainly don't feel guilty about it this time. Flowers are blooming, adorning corners of the city with incredible colour and exuding heady scents while filling the air with thick, snow-like pollen. Snow itself is now scarcely visible on our now familiar mountains whose bare rock has begun to glow with our long light evenings and spectacular sunsets. We have taken up our rugs, put away our jumpers and scrubbed down our terrace which had been coated in layer upon layer of soot... This must be one of the dustiest cities in the world with dry particle-filled air which is almost never washed clean by rain (a phenomenon so rare that one can live without waterproofs). However the upside is almost constant year-round sun... hence hats and sunblock are now required items for the children's rucksacks.
With only a month to go, the countdown to the end of the school year has begun, with shows being prepared, songs practised and costumes fitted... DD1 is tired after a whole year of getting up unspeakably early thus even she is now beginning to look forward to the summer break (though is probably unaware that it is nearly three months long). Our building's swimming pool has recently been reopened for the summer season so at the moment I foresee plenty of dips to keep us busy... though we haven't yet been in. No rush...
Meanwhile at DD2's nursery they are preparing for the annual Far West Camp, during which the boys dress up as cowboys, the girls as natives and those whose parents agree get to spend the night in a tent in the nursery's garden with the "tias"... DD2 was all for it until she realised we wouldn't be coming too. Luckily it coincides with a prior arrangement we had already made so we all have a five-hour train journey south of Santiago to look forward to instead which we feel a bit happier about...
With only a month to go, the countdown to the end of the school year has begun, with shows being prepared, songs practised and costumes fitted... DD1 is tired after a whole year of getting up unspeakably early thus even she is now beginning to look forward to the summer break (though is probably unaware that it is nearly three months long). Our building's swimming pool has recently been reopened for the summer season so at the moment I foresee plenty of dips to keep us busy... though we haven't yet been in. No rush...
Meanwhile at DD2's nursery they are preparing for the annual Far West Camp, during which the boys dress up as cowboys, the girls as natives and those whose parents agree get to spend the night in a tent in the nursery's garden with the "tias"... DD2 was all for it until she realised we wouldn't be coming too. Luckily it coincides with a prior arrangement we had already made so we all have a five-hour train journey south of Santiago to look forward to instead which we feel a bit happier about...
Saturday, 5 November 2011
The other side of the mountains
DD1 has often asked me what is on the other side of the great awe-inspiring mountains which constantly loom large and majestic over us here in the eastern elevated side of Santiago. Thus when DH had to attend a conference in Cordoba, Argentina it seemed like as good an opportunity as any to tag along and see for ourselves what lay beyond... Many people drive from Santiago to Mendoza up and over an apparently spectacularly breathtaking mountain pass, crossing the frontier to Argentina on the way. Cordoba however was quite a bit further north and east so we decided to take a short hop by plane, thereby minimising the possibility of car sickness (alas a crucial consideration) and drastically reducing the journey length...
On arrival and while travelling from the airport into the city, Argentina was immediately and noticeably different: greener and flatter at first, becoming hilly as we approached the city. Cordoba itself was a pleasant treasure-trove, full of historic buildings from the time of the Jesuit settlers who industriously constructed several churches, schools and libraries. The streets around the old town were buzzing as were the newer areas around the canal, packed with students drinking mate (an Argentinian tradition) and lots of bars, cafes and restaurants... One could have been forgiven for thinking that one was in Spain. People were friendly, food was interesting and varied and all in all it was rich in culture. The girls and I even managed to do two museums in one day which was quite a result, although they drew the line at an academic lecture in Jesuit architecture, preferring to explore the cloisters and courtyard while a guide earnestly explained the intricacies of the early conferral of university degrees in the Salon de los grados...
A most enjoyable and refreshing city break, all the more pleasurable for its flavour of Europe and feel of the Old World which seem so far away from Chile...
On arrival and while travelling from the airport into the city, Argentina was immediately and noticeably different: greener and flatter at first, becoming hilly as we approached the city. Cordoba itself was a pleasant treasure-trove, full of historic buildings from the time of the Jesuit settlers who industriously constructed several churches, schools and libraries. The streets around the old town were buzzing as were the newer areas around the canal, packed with students drinking mate (an Argentinian tradition) and lots of bars, cafes and restaurants... One could have been forgiven for thinking that one was in Spain. People were friendly, food was interesting and varied and all in all it was rich in culture. The girls and I even managed to do two museums in one day which was quite a result, although they drew the line at an academic lecture in Jesuit architecture, preferring to explore the cloisters and courtyard while a guide earnestly explained the intricacies of the early conferral of university degrees in the Salon de los grados...
A most enjoyable and refreshing city break, all the more pleasurable for its flavour of Europe and feel of the Old World which seem so far away from Chile...
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