Stand by your man

One month of the holidays left until school reopens and we aren't actually doing too badly. The girls are enjoying the long epicurean days and it must be said so am I. I am pleasantly surprised at how well they are playing together although plenty of fighting goes on too...often about toys or dolls' clothes. It's definitely been a bonding period as Santiago slows down and empties for the summer while school and nursery seem like a distant memory.
Last week we were invited to DH's department's end-of-year party, an event held in the university grounds for academic staff and students alike-- plus entourage such as ourselves. The students had gone to a great deal of trouble, not just by setting up and decorating stalls and even a barbecue serving choripan (sausage in a bread roll) and anticuchos (brochettes) amongst other delights but also by erecting a sophisticated sound system with amplifiers and at least two lap-tops providing the soundtrack of non-stop music tailored for a range of tastes and age-groups. Spirits were high, wine and beer flowed and the atmosphere was generally good despite some minor scuffles marring the end. The children amused themselves, especially by exploring the grounds while some of us indulged in some uninterrupted adult conversation. Inevitably I was asked about how I had settled in to life in Chile, what my impressions were and whether or not I was working at the moment...probably about a dozen times. Needless to say my answers became more expansive and less guarded as the Sauvignon Blanc went down...
Which brings me on to an issue I have been wanting to address for a while but haven't yet found the right moment, namely that of the Trailing Spouse. At first it was a novelty and of course a privilege, not to have to work and following one's husband around the world while also busily taking care of domestic matters and the lion's share of the childcare. Isn't that what all women did once, I wonder to myself, and many still do even in our so-called most developed cultures, at least for a few years while the children are small. Not so in Chile, where I and others like me are the exception and very much the minority. I hardly ever see Chilean mothers with their children here during the day apart from at weekends; usually families employ the ubiquitous and strictly apron-clad figure of the Nana, a robust all-encompassing home-help whose tasks may comprise anything within the home but also include looking after their patrons' children. I suppose their "mistresses" haven't had to up sticks and move to the other side of the world but still it's food for thought as I am surrounded by an army of apron-wearing women in parks, around the pool and in the communal gardens, some of whom I can't help feeling probably don't care much for the spoilt brat(s) in their charge but who will put up with anything for 10,000 Chilean pesos (approximately US$20) for an entire day's work... As for us Trailing Spouses, we do feel a bit isolated at times but of course have to look at the positives such as travelling to a new country/continent/hemisphere, learning a new language, spending time with one's children and thinking about going back to work...

Excursion into the Central Valley

The weekend following the party was a long one thanks to Columbus (more about him later) so we took the opportunity to have a change of scene by hiring a car and driving into the Central Valley south of Santiago to explore some of the famous vineyards, orchards and countryside in general.
Ruta 5, the main motorway which bisects Chile's already slim interior, is not particularly interesting in itself though it is pleasantly surprising how quickly one can actually get out of the city (traffic permitting). This being Chile however there are often unexpected sights to note on the motorway such as cyclists, pedestrians and of course stray dogs traversing the carriageways (often to their peril). We took advantage of the roadside vendors on the way back to stock up on fresh produce, filling every available space in the car with minor wonders from the fertile Colchagua valley such as sackfuls of potatoes, oranges, kiwis, avocados, strawberries, asparagus...
Back to the trip. After passing Rancagua we turned off the motorway at San Fernando, embarking on the aptly-named Ruta del Vino which was a meandering road flanked by endless vineyards and occasionally bursts of startlingly beautiful wild orange flowers. Eventually we reached our destination of Santa Cruz, the main town of the area and inevitably a gateway to the tourism, gastronomy and business of visiting vineyards, wine-tasting and buying wine. It was a good place to stay while exploring the area though the guidebooks had somewhat exaggerated its charm we found. As usual for Chile there was a stark contrast between the social classes; most of the town was unexceptional with some very dilapidated parts to it while a luxury five-star hotel and restaurant (with its own casino) occupied the central position in the main plaza...
Our own bed and breakfast was tucked away on the edge of the town but was perfectly comfortable for our purposes which were quite literal in this case. We dutifully visited a vineyard though chose one the girls would enjoy which included a tour of the vines by horse-drawn carriage... and were persuaded into tasting and buying some wine too. The vineyards themselves were somehow different to the ones we knew from the more familiar landscapes of France and Italy, not terraced nor set on undulating hills but organised on the plain and surrounded by countryside which was reminiscent of the Wild West... This was "huaso" (Chilean cowboy) territory after all.

The cowboy theme continued the next day as we set off on our first horse-ride, DD1 and I on one horse and DD2 and DH on the other, accompanied by a real-life "huaso" on a third horse. We had expected to be led around a field for half an hour or so therefore were most surprised when our guide took us for what turned out to be a two-hour trek into open countryside. Despite some initial fears such as how to control one's horse it was very atmospheric and I for one felt like a character from a western. DD1 spent most of the time complaining she was being squashed and panicking every time the horse broke into a trot while DD2 was blissfully blithe, held firmly by DH who lost then regained his stirrups... but we all made it safely to the end, muscles aching but exhilarated by our latest adventure...